interior window rubber at the top of the door trim. Covers all doors
on sedan and wagon. Models: VN
- VS, Executive, Berlina, not sure about door trim construction on
black rubber window seal between the top of the interior door trim
and the window glass separates from the door trim.
Heuer - 30APR96
This is my account of how I did this little repair. I don't suggest
you follow these steps, I'm not a motor mechanic and I don't work
for Holden or GM. I took lots of care not to sniff the glue, cut myself
with screwdrivers, etc. I suggest you do too. Parental guidance recommended.
Is this stuff really neccessay?
the positive battery terminal and chock the wheels. They always say
that in the manuals. It's some sort of disclaimer for idiots who burn
down their car or run themselves over.
1. Grab the
rubber seal before it completely separates from the door trim and
falls into the door cavity. This makes the job relatively easy. If
the rubber seal has fallen into the door cavity you can still follow
these instructions, you just need to continue to remove the door trim,
fish out the rubber seal, then replace the trim and join us again
near the end (heh, heh).
the interior door lock knob. This needs a simple tool to be made.
a wire coat hanger, cut a length of wire about 300mm long.
about 75mm at one end.
a pair of pliers, from a 90 degree bend at the flattened end so that
there is a 1 - 2mm lip at the flattened end.
2d. Make a
gentle curve in the flattened part so that the lip can get down the
side of the lock knob while the wire lays horizontally across the
orange strip at the front of the knob.
2e. The orange
strip across the front of the lock knob is what holds the knob onto
the lock rod. Lay the homemade tool across the orange strip as described
in 2d. Hook the lip of the tool behing the side of the orange strip,
and swing the other end of the tool in toward the centre of the car.
You should now be able to tug the tool and have the orange strip pop
out from the lock knob.
2f. If the
orange strip won't pop free, you may need to just pull up on the lock
knob while using the tool to pull the orange strip toward the centre
of the car. This may be enough to release the clamp on the lock rod.
the lock knob trim ring by removing the retaining screw.
the interior door grab handle trim plate by gently prising it off
with a small screwdriver. Slacken the two grab handle retaining screws.
If your car has electrical remote mirrors you may need to pop the
adjustment switch out of the grab handle. It is just a press fit.
the rear view mirror trim plate on front doors by removing the screw
and prising the trim away from the door frame. My car has electric
mirrors, so I'm not sure how this bit differs for cars with manual
5. Wind the
window down as far as it will go.
prise the top edge of the door trim away from the door slightly. You
should feel the press in clips just 'pop' free, that's far enough.
7. Using a
screwdriver, and being careful not to damage the door trim, prise
up one end of the plastic strip along the top edge of the door trim.
This piece is pressed onto the door itself, it is not attached to
the door trim.
8. Work along
the plastic strip, lifting it upwards. Make sure the black rubber
seal comes with the trim. Don't let it fall into the door.
9. Using a
contact adhesive (eg Bostik), glue the black rubber back onto the
plastic trim strip. You may need to slightly stretch the black rubber
seal so that it reaches along the full length of the plastic strip.
is a reversal of the removal procedure (yeh, right). OK, here's the
11. With the
window still wound down, and the door trim still pulled slightly away
from the door, press the plastic trim strip back onto the top edge
of the door metalwork. Press the door trim back into place. You should
feel the press in clips 'pop' back in. Check that the door trim has
slid in under the lip on the plastic trim strip at the top of the
door trim. Check that the window can be wound up without fouling on
the rubber seal.
12. To replace
the rear view mirror trim plate on the front doors you need to reset
the locking plug on the insige of the trim plate. Simply move the
black plug to the outer end of the four locking fingers in the centre
of the trim plate. When replacing the trim plate, make sure the edge
of the plate nearest the window has located over the window frame,
then locate the four locking fingers into the hole and tap into place.
Replace the screw. I don't have manual mirrors, so I don't know how
this part would differ on cars with manual mirrors.
the screws in the grab handle, replace the mirror ajustment switch
(if fitted), and the trim plate. Check operation of the mirror adjustment
the lock knob trim ring and the retaining screw. Insert the orange
strip into the lock knob so that it sits out from the front of the
lock knob. Make sure the door is unlocked (ie the lock rod is pulled
up). Drop the lock knob over the lock rod so that the orange strip
rests against the bottom of the lock knob trim ring. Press the orange
strip into the lock knob so it sits flush with the front of the lock
knob. Check operation of the lock knob.
That's it. Sit back and wait for the rubber strip to come adrift from
the next door.
conditioner fan on a VN-VS only works on some speeds If the heater/air
conditioner fan on a VN-VS only works on some speeds ie; only high
speeds, its very likely to be the resistor found under the plastic
cover under the windscreen wiper arms.
It is a very
simple job. The tools required are a small flathead screwdiver and
a smallish phillips head screwdriver.
1. The plastic
cover is removed by displacing rubber seal, undoing the clips with
small screwdriver and lifting it off.
2. When the
plastic cover is off you will see a dome held on with 2 screws in
front of the passenger seat towards the centre of the car.
the dome and then take the elecrical plug off the resistor, undo the
2 screws (2 more screws) holding the resistor in and withdraw the
resistor. It looks kind of like a bird cage.
4. In the
birdcage are 3 coils of wire if one of them is broken thats why the
fan is acting up. You will probably have to look very closely at it.
5. Buy a new
6. From go
to woa this job takes about half an hour if you take your time and
do it carefully. A sparkie will charge you copious amounts of your
well deserved and hardly earned $$$$$.
7. As they
say; "installation is the same procedure in reverse.
Top VN petrol
and temp. gauge intermittently failing Get Voltage
regulator board mounted behind cluster re-soldered/repaired.
Gauge Tip If the gauge
is reading funny, check the main earth strap from the coil pack of
the sixes to near the air filter box. Holden usually forgets this
earth and the motor earths through the temp gauge and will give a
false reading. After many tests, an Auto Electrician told me to check
it and it was stuck under the air box. A new clamp and perfect. Holden's
reply- Oh well you get that! Not any more I don't... Hope this helps
Trip Computer Special Functions To start the
special functions, press and hold the RESET button while turning on
the ignition. The manual says to exit use the + and - buttons, it
does not work on mine, MODE and RESET buttons have to be pressed simultaneously.
The computer will do a self diagnostic check and display the word
'FAIL' if it finds an internal fault.
three modes of operation, the 1st diagnostic display shows: speed
in km/h, fuel in L/h, Button Test. In the button test a '0' should
be displayed for each button pressed (trip computer only).
mode button to change the display to the 2nd diagnostic display: Battery
Voltage, Fuel tank sender Volts, Button Test again. For the fuel tank:
Tank full approx 4.4V, Half full approx 6.6V, Empty tank approx 8.5V.
the mode button to energise all segments of the display.
VN, VP Commodore
Power Door Locks fail Recently my
right rear door stopped locking/unlocking properly. I pulled out the
door lock and took a gander at the power door lock actuator. The thing
can't be triggered without power, so don't bother, but when trying
to lock/unlock, it wasn't moving anyway, as if it had no power, and
because that wasn't moving, it was stopping the mechanical lock operating
manually. The problem with these GM actuators is that they aren't
easily servicable, by the user. However, if you want to have a go,
here it is:
Open the actuator
at the seams. It can be quite difficult, I did it by shoving a flat-blade
screw-driver down the cable-end, into the verticle gap closest to
the edge, which started it opening. Then, I shoved another screwdriver
down the same side at the other end -- by the actuator. Don't worry
if it sounds like things are breaking, they are, and there isn't much
you can do. Once you have it open, have a look at the wires connecting
the motor to the circuit board. On mine, the red wire had disconnected.
I soldered it back on, and put it back together (using masking tape
to seal it again - it won't reseal), and it works perfectly again.
go ripping actuators apart, first simply look at the connector. Mine
was dirty, all it needed was a clean, and a fine pick to bend the
pins back out to make a firmer connection.
Noise Just a quick
note to let some of you know about a engine noise on the V6. Problem
sounds like the timing chain but is actually the pulley on the top
of the engine near the alternator, worth checking before doing your
timing chain. I changed this and no more noise!
Rough Idle Faulty wiring
connection. Black wire with Yellow trace - inside the engine bay coming
from EFI control unit. Single wire splits off to two wires. Hold wire,
squeeze or move wire at join and the engine should increase in idle
then settle. In some cases, the engine may stall. Repair connection.
wires run to the Coolant Temperature Sensor and the Throttle Position
VN V6 Won't
Idle When Warm Remove
the Air Filter Duct at the Throttle Valve end. Soak a rag in Carburetter
Cleaner and clean both faces of the Throttle Valve butterfly and venturi
duct as far as you can get with the rag. If the idle improves, it
is worth removing the Throttle body, disassembling and cleaning thoroughly.
central locking wiring harness falling out of rear door locks
simple way to fix: drill a 1/8" hole through female connection inside
door- thread a small wire tie through drilled hole and through little
loop on male connector, do up wire tie and this will hold connection
firmly in place. (Take care with centralising hole in female connector,
if off centre wiring loom will not connect properly thus failure to
operate will result, and keep hole as close to front edge as possible
avoiding damage to wires.)
V6 3800 and
V8 5000 Oil Pressure Problems (my VS Caprice, 160,000km) Recently my
wife was driving the car on a 2hour trip from Perth to Bunbury in
heavy traffic. The Oil warning light came on and she stopped - that
was the good news. The bad news was- there was NO oil pressure. A
friend helped her get the car home (towed only a few k's). When I
started it the top end was rattling badly - lifted deflated, etc.
Recognised mechanics all said change the oil pump after checking the
filter. Nothing wrong with the filter so off with the oil pump, Hmmm
brand new! no wear! still no oil pressure. checked the "Gregorys"
manual, followed checks. Finally had to drop the oil pan for inspection,
read on for procedure.
ALWAYS THINK SAFETY FIRST and DO NOT climb under vehicle unless well
supported by approved methods. Approved Methods do not include the
use of house bricks!!
the front suspension crossmember(x-mmbr). Jack or Raise the front
of the car and support on the chassis under front door pillars with
car jacks, not on car ramps) Then lower the x-mmbr(easiest when 4
x-mmbr bolts undone and lift the bolts out of the chassis rail by
bending back the tab on top of the bolt, slowly lower the xmmbr a
few inches and support). "Lifting the engine may not be required but
this is how I did it, and suggest undoing the manifolds is still a
Step 2. Drain
the oil (1 inch socket), if the oil is new you may want to recover
it into oil drums not your grotty sump tray.
the two lower engine mount bolts and exhaust manifold bolts and checking
the wiring and hoses all the time (esp. aircon) lift the engine with
a quality sling under the harmonic balancer(may not be a good lifting
point but it works!)and the oil pan "can" be removed without removing
starter, aircon, etc! saves time. use a 3/8 & 14mm socket to remove
the oil pan bolts.
Step 4. with
the oil pan out you should be able to see the cause of your problem.
Crud blocking the sump pump pickup and filling the "dead space" in
the bottom of the sump. NB: This problem has come about by Holden
trying to resolve oil surge problems. There is a metal "cup" over
the steel gauze (read: "crud filter". Crud is caused by using "Stop
Leak" products usually by car salesman fixing gasket leakage or compression
problems) which slowly fills with crud and does not fall out when
the oil is changed.
Step 5. Remove
and wash clean the pickup (1 x Main bearing bolt and 2 x 3/8 socket
sized bolts) Cut 3/4 of this "cup" away, clean the rest of the crud
out and smooth the edges of the cut joint (I marked a line and used
an angle grinder to cut the cup off) then refit it in the engine and
torque the Main Bearing bolt back up using a torque wrench with correct
Step 6a. Clean
the remaining crud and your "recently serviced" oil from the pan.
NB: Important point for your NEXT SERVICE - note how the Sump Drain
Bolt sits on the side of the pan and does not drain all the oil and
crud from the sump when doing and oil change. I suggest you raise
the left side of the car when draining oil - (maybe drive it up a
car ramp at front and jack the back? or change gravity 30' for a few
Step 6b. Refit
the pan using a new neoprene gasket from Coventries (about $17:00,
* aids their xmas pissup fund) using red high temp RTV to hold the
gasket to the bottom of the engine while lifting the pan into place.
all cables/hoses clear raise(hydraulic jack) and rebolt the x-mmbr
in place, these are locking nuts and should be thrown away and replaced
with new bolts and nuts(see * in step 6b).
the rest of wiring/hoses etc and Lower Engine and rebolt.
Steps 9 to
15. Remount manifolds, lower vehicle, (I installed a 600 kPa gauge
beside oil pressure switch (and 1000kPa gauge in fuel delivery line)
for future reference) Fill 'er up with oil/water etc. and check engine
pressure with a gauge when starting.
the entire centre console assembly do this.
ashtray in the centre console. Grab the panel around the gear lever
and yank it upwards from the rear (note it clips in at the rear and
hinges up at the front - be careful)
- RHS at the back is a black hinge pivot. Slide this left and unclip
box. Remove inspection panel beneath steering wheel by removing clips
on front and the hinge pin in a similar manner.
Remove 3 screws
along front bottom of radio/storage cup etc facia. Pull it out bottom
first. Unplug harnesses for AC/driving lights etc. Remove 3 screws
either side of the shroud surrounding the radio etc assembly. LOOSEN
the two screws at the leading edge (front) of the console until the
console drops down from the radio assemble shroud (what a silly name
I gave it eh?). Should unclip at the back and remove.
There is a
security screw on the radio that needs to be undo as well as the rivets
on the front bracket. Remove radio. Remove climate controls.
console, lift carpet at bottom of centre console storage bin and remove
two screws below. Unzip hand brake. Lift rear of console and remove
window harness etc. Remove console with heaps of swearing and argueing.
what I can remember. Some things may be in the wrong order.
If you need
more help just yell!
when you reassemble a good idea is to put a drop of glue (not too
much, just a drop to stop any lateral movement) on the mating surfaces
of the plastic panelling as it has a habit of squeaking and creaking
if it has been removed several times. I use 3M 4475-multipurpose adhesive.
Careful, its gets the mozzarella cheese effect happening easily!
Tip for leaking
boot on VP exec sedan A leaking
boot is not always due to a faulty boot lid seal. The seal between
the tail lights and the body shrinks over time and allows water to
pass into the light assembly and out along one of the two studs holding
the light cluster to the body. This can corrode the light globes as
well as the spare wheel well!. The fix is to replace the lights ($$$)
or clean the mating surfaces and augment the seal with some silastic.
I hope this
saves many frustrating hours locked in the boot of a Commodore for
Electric Side Mirror Switch on a VP Commodore 1. If the
bulb has blown, replacements are available from Tandy. They are referred
to as Microlamps 12V 60mA Product Code 272-1092. They are soldered
2. Using a
screwdriver as a lever remove the cover on the front of the door handle.
The switch is a push fit. Remove the foam from the connector plug
and disconnect the switch from the wiring harness.
3. Pull off
the Left/Right selector knob and the square directional adjustment
knob. The latter is firmly attached.
a screwdriver alternately into the three 'windows' on the sides of
the switch and press down towards the base to push the switch out
of its shell. Warning: Do this over a large bowl as there are many
small components including springs that will pop out.
5. You should
have 4 small round springs, two flat metal springs, three conical
buttons and two small silver metal strips as well as a number of larger
6. As the
contacts are made of silver they tarnish and that results in a poor
contact. All contact surfaces have to be cleaned. I used silver dip
followed by thorough washing for the conical silver buttons. This
isn't suitable for the fixed contacts as residues are corrosive. Cotton
buds and silver cleaner are OK. Clean off residues.
7. Clean copper
switch contacts and solder in new bulb if required.
8. Hold switch
housing upside down, preferably clamped to keep it steady. Lower the
left/right toggle in position with its four springs in each corner.
Tweezers will be necessary. Position the two silver strip contacts
over the springs.
9. Lower the
directional toggle in position. Take care to align it corectly so
that it will mate up with the three locations on the switch block.
the copper printed circuit contacts. Grease the three locations for
the silver buttons and sit the buttons in position pointy side down.
Place the flat springs in position (may have to hold in place with
grease). Invert the switch block carefully and lower into the housing
ensuring that nothing falls out. It snaps into position.
the two knobs. Note the square one has a small indentation on the
shaft that alligns with a tiny plastic clip.
Wheel Grip on VP (and other models?) I don't know
about your particular State, but during the long, hot summers in the
West, prolonged exposure to the sun seems to soften the steering wheel
grip, to the point where it "rolls" in your hands when driving, as
if it has come adrift from the steel former (which it has).
another steering wheel. All you gotta do is re-glue it! I fixed it
a treat by using a syringe and needle measuring about 1mm (not being
a junkie, I don't know the proper needle size terms, just as long
as the centre is sufficient to pass some glue).
1. Drill a
hole through the grip, to the steel centre, using the smallest bit
you can find. Allow one drilled hole per 3-4" of wheel circumference,
wherever the grip has come adrift.
2. Fill the
syringe with glue (I used Selleys general purpose multi-grip glue).
the syringe needle into each drilled hole, and push the plunger like
hell, because the glue is pretty thick. Usually 2-3 ml will do each
4. If a bulge
appears in the grip,(because you have inserted too much glue),just
even it out with a good hand grip!
directions work best in warmer temps, when the steering wheel grip
is pliable, and the glue runs better. Allow at least 24 hrs for the
glue to set. Where you get the syringe from is your business! Hewlett
Packard ink refill kits contain them, and is one easy source.
water in boot I found water
in the boot of my 1995 VR Acclaim. After accusing and replacing the
boot rubber and still having the leak I did the usual and got myself
locked in the boot. It turns out that the rear side window (between
C & D pillars) is an integral unit with the rubber. Removing the
interior trim around the window reveals the bolts that hold the window
on. The seal around the window/rubber had perished with age and was
letting water in above the wheel well. The solution was to silicon
it back on/in.
TIP: If you need to smash any window to get into the car - smash door
glass not this window as the door glass is easier to replace!!!
VR V6 Engine stalls or cranks over roughly and doesn't fire
If the car is doing the above or possibly fires and stops shortly after the fuel pump is likely to be the cause. Get a rubber mallet or something similar and bang on the middle of the petrol tank while someone is cranking over the car. This might allow it to run for a while to get you out of trouble. It is wise at this stage to change the fuel pump A.S.A.P!
for no reason (check engine light on) If your VR
stops for no specific reason (check engine light comes on) and then
starts after a period of time, try fiddling with the wiring loom below
the coil pack. It works for me.
but only for a short time. The problem is corrosion (probably not
visible) between the plug and socket connector pins. The plug and
socket are held together by a bolt in the middle (~6mm), undo this,
pull the two apart and work them in and out a few times, then squirt
good quality WD40 etc in before reassembling. This is a much more
long-lasting fix. The basic problem is that the pins should be gold
plated to prevent corrosion but they aren't to cut 10c off the production
price for Holden. The WD makes an oil film to keep oxygen out.
2 will not start for up to 1 hour intermittant problem Generated
code 46, no spark or injection pulse. Found problem to be the crank
angle sensor, being a controls tech I tracked the fault by spraying
the crank sensor with rapid freeze, the trusty V6 fired straight away.
Changed the sensor 4 months ago problem solved.
To reset the
radio after disconnecting power, from the manual for Radio Model 6430V:
1. Turn ignition
switch to accessories.
Turn radio on, "1" will appear in the display.
Via the 6 preset buttons enter the supplied 6 digit security number.
As each digit is entered, the number will be displayed in the LCD.
If the correct number was entered, the unit will become operational
after a few seconds. This release procedure will not have to be performed
again, unless the vehicle's battery has been disconnected.
If the incorrect number was entered, "2" will appear in the LCD.
Enter the correct code and the unit will operate. Should an incorrect
number have been entered again, "3" will appear in the display. The
unit will only accept the code once more. Should this number be incorrect
again, the display will show "---" and the unit must remain connected
to power for approximately 1 hour before the correct number can be