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Flush 4 speed auto

Discussion in 'VE Holden Commodore (2006 - 2013)' started by Horacehighroller, Jan 24, 2020.

  1. Horacehighroller

    Horacehighroller New Member

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    I am going to flush 2010 VE V6 4 speed tonight.

    Can someone please tell me if the ATF supply line from the transmission to the radiator goes to the passenger side or the drivers side of the radiator.

    It will save me disconnecting the wrong one and potentially spraying ATF on my wife's precious paved driveway??

    (I intend to disconnect just to the drivers side of the bottom crankshaft pulley where the flexible hoses connect to rigid pipes which go to rediator.)

    T.I.A. Peter
     
  2. greenacc

    greenacc Searching for the billion

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    Not sure which one it is. I don't like playing with those quick connectors so I service mine by pulling the pan off. That way I can also change the filter. What fluid are you using? Be careful using low viscosity fluid in the 4 speed.
     
  3. Horacehighroller

    Horacehighroller New Member

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    I can now answer my own question - the supply from the transmission is the one on the drivers side.
    (I took the car for a 3 km run to get the ATF to 50 degrees, (the hotter hose at the radiator turned out to be the return line??.)
    Obviously the coolant was heating the ATF.

    I got a touch over 4 litres out by idling the motor in "N" until I heard "spluttering"

    I will drop the pan in the morning after everything has dripped down overnight, replace the filter and put it all back together after gently blowing out the lines to/from the radiator to remove the maximum amount of the old fluid.
    (Fluid is deep red (nearly black) car has done 192K mainly gentle metro - no towing.)

    In answer to your question I have already bought Dex VI so will use that, and if there are issues I will drop the pan again and replace with Dex III. (No flush needed as Dex111 and Dex VI are compatible.)

    I had no problem with the quick connector - used a very small flat blade screw driver.
     
  4. greenacc

    greenacc Searching for the billion

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    Sounds good, but lots of fluids claim to be dex6 now. Which brand are you using?
     
  5. VFSV6FORME

    VFSV6FORME Well-Known Member

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    Yeah due to change the auto fluid and filter on our VE. I have done the VR commodore at least 5 times in 25 odd years. So its Dexron 6 for the VE?
     
  6. greenacc

    greenacc Searching for the billion

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    Depends which Dexron6. They all claim to be Dexron6 now but some of them make the 4speed slip which really gives me the SheiTs!
    The nicest fluid I have used is the Nulon Full Synthetic Multi Vehicle ATF ( In the Gold bottle).
    Have tried Penrite LV and it was bad, slipping when changing gear.
    Penrite FS is ok and on sale today.
    I have been told by an old Auto Transmission specialist that the 4 speed was designed for dexron3 NOT 6, and Holden just changed the spec to try and sell Dex6 because they had the patent on it.
     
  7. VFSV6FORME

    VFSV6FORME Well-Known Member

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    Talking about the VE auto. When you change the Filter on the Auto on a VE do you still have that stupid issue of getting the steel "O" ring out that is left behind after you remove the old filter. This alone pisses me off when I changed the fluid and filter on a VR Auto Commodore.
     
  8. greenacc

    greenacc Searching for the billion

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    Yes you do. It's the same job but with a very slightly different gasket and filter. You can get a proper tool for the seal I hear.
     
  9. VFSV6FORME

    VFSV6FORME Well-Known Member

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    Interesting!!!
    I use a blunt screw driver so I dont gouge a grove inside on the wall itself. ( hate this as I'm scared of damaging something)
    What method do you use to remove the old seal?
     
  10. greenacc

    greenacc Searching for the billion

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    I use much the same as you. A small tool of some sort and a hammer to fold the shell inward so I can grab it with pliers and yank it out. I suspect if you do regular services it would not really be necessary to replace the seal every time... Maybe every second instead.
     
  11. Horacehighroller

    Horacehighroller New Member

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    OK, so I have now completed the job and would happily do it again now I know the ins and outs.

    If anyone wants to do a flush I suggest the following:
    Remove the splash shield under the radiator - 4 x 13mm bolts, 2 plastic clips at each inner guard and about 6 small bolts into the bottom of the bumper (This car only had 2.)
    Warm trans to 50 or 60 degrees (no hotter or you will end up burning yourself.)
    Remove the air intake between the filter box and inlet manifold.
    Insert a container under the two ATF pipes but above the crossmember just behind the radiator ( I used an aluminium foil baking tray because you can crush it to get it in and then restore it's shape to catch the couple of tablespoons of ATF which will leak out. When everything is completed you can crunch it up with the spilt ATF to remove it from the engine bay)
    Place a rag or crumpled newspaper in this tray and various rags around the site so when the clip springs away in the next step you don't have to spend half an hour searching for it.
    Disconnect the "quick connect" fitting nearest to the bottom pulley (the return line to the transmission.)
    (See youtube for help to understand how to do this. I just used a very small flat blade screwdriver in the slot - and then had to find the clip.)
    Feed a tube (I used 19mm black garden water system tube) up from below the radiator and insert the flexible rubber hose. Place a 5 litre (minimum) container below to catch what will soon come out.
    Have a helper start the engine in neutral (you need to replace the air intake pipe or the engine will only run for a second or so) and run at idle until the fluid starts to spurt - I got about 4 litres.
    Carefully drop the transmission sump ( mine wasn't difficult to lower by hand without spilling because 4 litres had already been removed as above.)( I used a very small flat blade screwdriver to collapse the collar seal of the old filter, and a socket to press in the new one.)
    Once you have replaced the filter and cleaned and replaced the sump add 5 litres of ATF via the dipstick tube.
    Get a new collection container to replace the one under the radiator (preferably clear - I used a 2 litre cordial bottle).
    Again have your helper idle the engine until new fresh ATF appears.
    The system is now flushed as best it can be so reconnect the quick connect fitting. (You can't push the spring clip on like you would a normal circlip. You have to put one end in place and then stretch the other end over until it clips in. I used a couple of strands of copper wire to pull the clip using pointy nose pliers. Once it's in place it's easy to pull out the fine copper. Don't forget to slide the plastic ring back over the clip, - if it won't slide over easily the clip may not be fully in place.) Watch the procedure on youtube before attempting.
    At this stage there was nothing showing on the dipstick ( it is hard to see fresh fluid , where as the old black stuff was easy).
    Top up in small amounts and keep on checking - I got over zealous and then had to drain some out - PITA.

    If doing this again I would purchase clips from Repco or Bursons in advance as I "lost" the clip removing it and replacing it.

    Good luck
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2020
    VFSV6FORME likes this.
  12. Horacehighroller

    Horacehighroller New Member

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    I'm using Valvoline Synthetic. The dipstick (2010 3.6 Dual fuel) is marked "Dex VI"
     
  13. VFSV6FORME

    VFSV6FORME Well-Known Member

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    All I scared about is if you use a Joe blow filter and you change the filter to Ryco and they have a different internal diameter or different in any way you could be stuffed so you must change everything.
     
  14. greenacc

    greenacc Searching for the billion

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    That's not going to happen. All the filters on the Australian aftermarket are identical!! The cheap brands and the expensive one's all sell the same part made in the same factory!! So I suggest buying the cheapest one you can find which is usually Transgold at Supercheap. I've tried 3 brands and had a close look at the plastic filter and they're all exactly the same.
     
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  15. Anthony121

    Anthony121 Well-Known Member

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    Why are people draining trans using the coller pipes? Wouldn't you just drop the pan?
     
  16. Horacehighroller

    Horacehighroller New Member

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    If you drain from the quick connect first you won't have an overfull sump to remove from the vehicle.
    Removal of the sump is necessary whichever method you choose.
    After replacing the new filter and sump (and fluid) you can then complete the best flush that is possible (with the transmission in the vehicle).
     
  17. Anthony121

    Anthony121 Well-Known Member

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    But there is still fluid in the torque converter.
     
  18. greenacc

    greenacc Searching for the billion

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    Yes, so the best way would be to follow the procedure to empty the sump and replace the filter then go for a drive to flush the new fluid through the torque converter then drain and fill the sump again.
     
  19. Horacehighroller

    Horacehighroller New Member

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    As stated above, this is the best flush possible.
    (At least you have removed old ATF from the lines and radiator.)

    The only way to ensure ALL the old fluid is removed is to do as "greenacc" suggests and do another complete change of fluid by removing the sump again (and dumping 5-7 litres of new (expensive) Dex VI.

    I am more than happy with what I have done as the resultant fluid is difficult to see on the dipstick because it is so clear.
     
  20. Anthony121

    Anthony121 Well-Known Member

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    Thats probably why they do 3 flushes when they change a different type of fluid at work.
     

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